Free screaming eagle super tuner updates download software at UpdateStar. » screaming eagle pro super tuner maps » screaming eagle. » screaming eagle pro. Follow these steps to obtain your software. Enter your VCI serial number. Click the 'Download Pro Super Tuner Software' Button. Once this information is accepted, the software will provide the file for download. Select to 'run' or 'save' the file and then follow the instructions to install. If your are experiencing problems downloading.
- Learn about the key features of the Pro Street Tuner software and VCI hardware using the online training. This training will guide you through four lessons focused on first use of the software and VCI Hardware, an overview of the ESPFI System, an overview of key software features, and a step-by-step guide to tuning your motorcycle.
- Basic map upload instruction for your harley davidson.
How to do a Smart tune with a SEPSTCoupla notes before we get started:The HD documentation and the SEPST software interface are notoriously poor. So, I thought I'd write a simple-ish step-by-step guide for newbies.This is about using the Screamin' Eagle Pro Super Tuner, not other models like the SERT or TTS.As well as the SEPST's VCI interface box itself, you will also need the separately purchased software and interface leads.
Available at your local dealer or online.You can use Smart tune with a dyno or on its own – I'll be covering using it without a dyno. You won't get perfect results this way but it'll be pretty darn good.Why Smart Tune?When you swap out the hardware on a Harley you get changes in the flow of air and fuel.
Using Smart tune you can get the bike to tune itself to something close to the optimal air fuel ratios, these having been altered by a change in air cleaner, exhaust, throttle body, cams, etc.SummaryI'll cover:. Loading a base calibration. Recording data. Using Smart tune to change the base calibration.
Reflashing the ECU with the changed calibrationLoading a base calibration (AKA 'map' )I'm assuming you know enough to install the SEPST software and start it. It comes with instructions for this. Note: this whole thing is much easier using a laptop because you can get it near your bike.You need the SEPST software in 'Tuning mode: Advanced' to do this (setup option).1. Once you have the main SEPST screen up, select 'Tuning' (the tuning fork icon).2. Hit 'Manually Select File' and navigate to the appropriate directory where the software installed the canned maps (.dt0 files).
This is typically in 'C:Program DataSuper TunerDelphiTuning FilesBig Twins'. You will need to plough through a long list of maps.
The details for the map will be displayed if you click on a file name.3. Select the map that most closely matches your hardware.
For instance, if you have a stage 2 Fat Bob with SE204 cams then you'd want the 176ST002.dt0 map. Unfortunately, HD doesn't supply maps for non-Harley hardware so if you have non-Harley hardware then it's a matter of making the closest guess. Generally, the stage 1 maps are fine for any stage 1 hardware; after that it gets tricky.Connecting the VCI to your bike and laptop4.
Turn off the bike.5. Pull off the battery cover on the left side of the bike.
Here you will find an oblong grey connector with a black rubber bung in the end. Slide the grey connector out of its slot and take out the black bung.6.
Insert the correct VCI lead into the grey connector.7. Connect the other lead from the VCI to your laptop's USB port.Uploading the new map into the bike8. Try not to spend too long on the next part because your ignition and headlight will be on but the engine won't be running and this will flatten your battery after 30 mins or so.9. Turn on your bike's ignition switch and have the Run/Stop switch set to Run but don't fire up the engine!10. If the connections are all good then you should see the previously greyed-out 'Reflash' icon (the bike with lightning) has now become active. If not, then you need to check the connections again and maybe read the SEPST help files relating to connecting up the VCI.11.
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Press the 'Reflash' icon.12. On the next screen under 'Programming Status' there are two radio buttons; make sure both 'Enable Smart tune Reflash' and 'Reset Adaptive Fuel' are selected.13. Hit 'Program ECM Cal' and click 'OK' to confirm.14. Do not mess about with anything now! You can screw up your bike if you do. Just sit on your hands.15. When 'Flash Update Process Complete' is displayed, follow the instructions on the screen exactly: Turn off the ignition and wait 10 seconds.16.
Click 'OK' to clear the message.Great. The bike now has a nice new calibration/map loaded that matches your hardware. Next step is to tune this in for your bike.Recording dataYou still have the VCI all connected up, right?17. Turn the ignition switch back on.18. Click the 'Toolbox' icon (looks like a toolbox, duh).19. If things are connected up OK then the bottom three icons on the left of the screen will now be available.20. Select the 'VCI Data Record' icon.21.
At the next screen ('VCI Data Record' ), click 'VCI Record Start'.22. Follow the instructions and, when prompted, turn off the bike and disconnect the VCI from the laptop but not the bike.23.
The VCI has to stay on the bike. So find somewhere to tape it up or bung it in a pannier.24. Get geared up and ready to spend an hour out on the road. You want a nice long, quiet stretch of road where you can drive safely and uninterrupted at all road speeds in all gears. Finding this road is one of the hardest bits of the tuning process.25. Don't start recording until the engine is warm.26. When you reach your 'test track', pull over and leave the engine running.27.
Press the button once on the VCI. The light should start to flash.28.
Now ride the bike in all gears and at all speeds and at all throttle openings. Try to cover as much variation in driving conditions as you can. The SEPST only records at steady speed, so hold each speed/gear for about 10 seconds.
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You will be able to record for about an hour, which is usually plenty of time to get bored. Don't forget to just ride the bike for a while like you normally would too, trying to cover around-town and highway riding.29. LEAVE THE BIKE RUNNING – if you turn off now all your riding time will be wasted!30. Once you are finished capturing data and/or are back home LEAVE THE BIKE RUNNING!31. Press the button on the SEPST once. The light becomes steady.32.
Now you can turn off the bike.Getting the recorded data from the bike33. Reconnect the SEPST to your laptop. Turn on the bike's ignition switch.34. In the SEPST 'Toolbox' menu on the 'VCI Data Record' screen, select the 'Download data' tab.35. Download the recorded data following the prompts on the screen. Make a note of the filename of the saved data e.g. Scribble down something like:'VCI121-1242117.hdx: first data run recorded on March 1st 2012 with new stage 2 hardware fitted, driving about the A14 and the airfield'.OK so far?
You've done the hard bit and now all you need to do is merge the recorded data into the canned map you chose earlier, stick this onto the bike and Robert's your Mum's brother!36. If you turned off your laptop then fire it up again, run the SEPST software and load the map you used before, it cannot be a different map with different settings. See steps 1 to 3 above.37. Go to the 'Tuning' screen and click on the '+' signs to expand the 'VE Front Cyl' and 'VE Rear Cyl' displays on the left of the screen so that you can see 'Working', 'Last Saved', 'Original' and 'Smart tune' under them.38. Click and drag the 'Working' version of the 'VE Front Cyl' table into the lower half of the big space over to the right, selecting the 'Display as table' option as you let the mouse button go.39. Click and drag the 'Smart tune' version of the 'VE Front Cyl' table into the upper half of the big space over to the right, selecting the 'Display as table' option as you let the mouse button go.
It doesn't matter really which cylinder you do first or which two of the four windows you use. Drag and stretch the two windows you used so you can see the tables in both.40. In the 'Smart tune, VE Front Cyl' window, click 'Add New.' and use the dialogue file box to locate the file of data you saved in step 35 and open it. You'll get an error if you try to load a data file recorded using a different map.
In the future you might have several sessions' worth of recorded data and you can open them all now.41. Now hit 'Generate'. It'll take a little while to generate the new VE table.42.
When it's finished generating, the 'Please wait' disappears and the 'Update' button will no longer be greyed out.43. Check the modified cells in the 'Smart tune' table.
The ones that the tuning session got data updates for are shown. The actual contents aren't terribly important at this level of tuning. What is of interest though is the range of the cells you have managed to get data for. You'll probably have a rash of cells across the middle of the table and not much at the extremes.
That's OK if you did your usual riding as there will be data for that. The cells with no updates are what you missed on your ride and you might want to repeat this all later and try to hit some of those throttle position v RPM combos.44.
Once you are bored with looking at that, hit 'Update'.45. Look now at the 'Working' table. The cells to be changed are highlighted in turquoise.46. Repeat steps 38 to 45 for the other cylinder.47.
Save your modified map by hitting the 'Save As.' button on the top right of the screen. Try to give it a useful name, like '176ST002 with first data run made on 1 March 2012.dt0'.Getting your new tuned map into the bike48. Make sure you have your modified map selected on the 'Tuning' screen if you have more than one map open.49. Now reflash the ECM as you did in steps 8 to 16, except do not select 'Enable Smart Tune Reflash' but do select 'Reset Adaptive Fuel'.50. Follow the on-screen steps like you did before. Then turn off the bike, disconnect everything and wait at least 10 secs before starting the bike.And that's all there is to it!
You will now have a tuned map in the bike that matches your hardware. Thanks heaps for this instruction post mate,I find myself ready to try tuning my 2014 Wide Glide myself after totally loosing confidence with my Local HD dealer after a lot of issues. Anyway, looking forwards I got a couple of questions for those far more learned than I.Firstly. My sled is stock( still) apart from a 2 into 1 Exhaust From Ron Hacker which I'm stoked with. Posted By Robbdasnake on 03 Nov 2015 2:06 PMThanks heaps for this instruction post mate,I find myself ready to try tuning my 2014 Wide Glide myself after totally loosing confidence with my Local HD dealer after a lot of issues. Anyway, looking forwards I got a couple of questions for those far more learned than I.Firstly. My sled is stock( still) apart from a 2 into 1 Exhaust From Ron Hacker which I'm stoked with.
I would recommend putting on whatever base map is closest to your set-up and then smart tune from there.
How to do a Smart tune with a SEPSTCoupla notes before we get started:The HD documentation and the SEPST software interface are notoriously poor. So, I thought I'd write a simple-ish step-by-step guide for newbies.This is about using the Screamin' Eagle Pro Super Tuner, not other models like the SERT or TTS.As well as the SEPST's VCI interface box itself, you will also need the separately purchased software and interface leads. Available at your local dealer or online.You can use Smart tune with a dyno or on its own – I'll be covering using it without a dyno. You won't get perfect results this way but it'll be pretty darn good.Why Smart Tune?When you swap out the hardware on a Harley you get changes in the flow of air and fuel. Using Smart tune you can get the bike to tune itself to something close to the optimal air fuel ratios, these having been altered by a change in air cleaner, exhaust, throttle body, cams, etc.SummaryI'll cover:.Loading a base calibration.Recording data.Using Smart tune to change the base calibration.Reflashing the ECU with the changed calibrationLoading a base calibration (AKA 'map')I'm assuming you know enough to install the SEPST software and start it. It comes with instructions for this.
Note: this whole thing is much easier using a laptop because you can get it near your bike.You need the SEPST software in 'Tuning mode: Advanced' to do this (setup option).1.Once you have the main SEPST screen up, select 'Tuning' (the tuning fork icon).2.Hit 'Manually Select File' and navigate to the appropriate directory where the software installed the canned maps (.dt0 files). This is typically in 'C:Program DataSuper TunerDelphiTuning FilesBig Twins'. You will need to plough through a long list of maps. The details for the map will be displayed if you click on a file name.3.Select the map that most closely matches your hardware. For instance, if you have a stage 2 Fat Bob with SE204 cams then you'd want the 176ST002.dt0 map.
Unfortunately, HD doesn't supply maps for non-Harley hardware so if you have non-Harley hardware then it's a matter of making the closest guess. Generally, the stage 1 maps are fine for any stage 1 hardware; after that it gets tricky.Connecting the VCI to your bike and laptop4.Turn off the bike.5.Pull off the battery cover on the left side of the bike. Here you will find an oblong grey connector with a black rubber bung in the end. Sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but it seemed the perfect place to ask:As I understand it, a smart tune sets all the AFR values to the magic 'closed loop' value of 14.6 and then uses the closed-loop feedback observations during the run to calculate the VE at each point in the map.
The idea being that when the values are changed to something other than 14.6, it can use the VE values discovered using the O2 sensors at 14.6 to calculate the correct injection values to get the desired AFR in open-loop.My question is; when you upload a calibration for smart-tuning, as well as resetting all (most?) of the AFR values to 14.6 (closed-loop setting), does it also reset the CLB values? I would hope so, because otherwise it will calculating the VE values assuming that it is measuring 14.6 but is actually measuring something else entirely (let's assuming lower). So if it is actually running richer in closed-loop during smart-tune, the VE values will be higher than they should be. So when I set a conservative open-loop AFR value of say 14.5, the too-high VE value will mean that my actual realised AFR will be again considerably less than the desired 14.5.So in order for the open-loop operation to reflect the AFR values I have put in the table correctly, and CLB to only affect the realised AFR during closed-loop, should I manually reset my CLB values before starting a smart-tune, or is that all taken care of by the software?EDIT: Also, I haven't seen much in the way of research into what the minimum safe idle RPM is. Any pointers? The more opportunities for lowering engine temp at the lights in central London the better!EDIT2: And another thing: I know that you have to leave the ignition and run switch on at the end of a smart-tune run. But does the engine need to be running?
Can I pull up at home and then (for example) use the stand sensor whilst in gear to kill the engine without turning the run switch off?EDIT3: Ah. In case others are wondering, I suspect the reason why it retards the timing during smart-tunes is to avoid excessive detonation when running so lean. I'm wondering what effect this has on the VE values it comes up with. Whilst waiting for any useful replies, I've done some more research:It looks like the most recent version of the software actually 'hides away' the CLB table and instead will allow you to set lower AFR values and still flag them as 'closed loop'. That being the case, these should work as I expect. I'll get my wallet out.My bike idles at 1k.
I've seen some research that suggests that as long as you are above 900rpm, you are OK from a battery load point of view. (At 900rpm, the battery voltage drops off, so the load is overwhelming the alternator.) But I'd still like to know if an idle RPM of 950rpm (say) is enough to keep the oil moving. It's only a /little/ under 1k, so I'm assuming it's going to be fine.New questions:Does anybody ever try to tune the timing without a dyno? Can it be done (reliably/safely)? I'm assuming that if the optimum detonation is around 20deg ATDC, and that the knock sensor is only detecting detonation from BTDC thru very shortly afterwards, it is difficult to use the knock sensor to find the optimum point?Also, I've seen mentioned on hdforums.com a product called MyTune (MyTune - Harley Davidson EFI Tuning Software for Super Tuner (SEST), Race Tuner (SERT), TTS and TwinScan II+ (It apparently helps with setting up the calibration. But I can't see how, specifically.
Apparently it can interpret the knock retardation and come up with timing improvements. But if I'm not trying to aggressively improve the timing, are there any other benefits?
How about when it comes to smart-tuning? Can it improve the VE table better or faster than the SEPST smart-tune alone?Thanks again for any help. Sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but it seemed the perfect place to ask:As I understand it, a smart tune sets all the AFR values to the magic 'closed loop' value of 14.6 and then uses the closed-loop feedback observations during the run to calculate the VE at each point in the map. The idea being that when the values are changed to something other than 14.6, it can use the VE values discovered using the O2 sensors at 14.6 to calculate the correct injection values to get the desired AFR in open-loop.My question is; when you upload a calibration for smart-tuning, as well as resetting all (most?) of the AFR values to 14.6 (closed-loop setting), does it also reset the CLB values? I would hope so, because otherwise it will calculating the VE values assuming that it is measuring 14.6 but is actually measuring something else entirely (let's assuming lower). So if it is actually running richer in closed-loop during smart-tune, the VE values will be higher than they should be.
So when I set a conservative open-loop AFR value of say 14.5, the too-high VE value will mean that my actual realised AFR will be again considerably less than the desired 14.5.So in order for the open-loop operation to reflect the AFR values I have put in the table correctly, and CLB to only affect the realised AFR during closed-loop, should I manually reset my CLB values before starting a smart-tune, or is that all taken care of by the software?A question I asked myself a while ago too.Afraid I don't have an answer. What I have read on that there Interweb is conflicting. Some have said you do need to set the CLBs to 450, others have said you do not as Smart Tune mode handles that.My take is that if you had to do this then the manual would tell you to do so. It doesn't.Best I can offer.EDIT: Also, I haven't seen much in the way of research into what the minimum safe idle RPM is. Any pointers?
The more opportunities for lowering engine temp at the lights in central London the better!I have mine at 976 and it feels fine. I am probably going to take it up one notch to 984 though, occasionally makes my teeth chatter at lights at 976.EDIT2: And another thing: I know that you have to leave the ignition and run switch on at the end of a smart-tune run. But does the engine need to be running? Can I pull up at home and then (for example) use the stand sensor whilst in gear to kill the engine without turning the run switch off?Again - dunno. I strap the SEPST orange box to the bike by the battery cover and so its only a matter of leaning down and pressing the button, so its not really a problem for me.EDIT3: Ah.
In case others are wondering, I suspect the reason why it retards the timing during smart-tunes is to avoid excessive detonation when running so lean. I'm wondering what effect this has on the VE values it comes up with.
And to stop the anti-knock kicking in a messing things up. Shouldn't think it would alter the AFR readings it takes too much.
It looks like the most recent version of the software actually 'hides away' the CLB table and instead will allow you to set lower AFR values and still flag them as 'closed loop'. That being the case, these should work as I expect. I'll get my wallet out.Ah, tried that myself and got the 2013 software. Didn't work.The newer ECUs (2013+ models?) have lambda calibrations as opposed to AFR calibrations. So, instead of tuning around an AFR of 14.6, you tune around a lambda of 1.0. This is so that it automatically accounts for different fuels where the AFRs of lambda are different e.g.
Pure petrol versus E10.If you don't have the right ECU then you don't get to use the lambda calibrations and it's these that have the ability to set the AFR directly for closed loop rather than needing the frig of CLB tables.Does anybody ever try to tune the timing without a dyno? Can it be done (reliably/safely)? I'm assuming that if the optimum detonation is around 20deg ATDC, and that the knock sensor is only detecting detonation from BTDC thru very shortly afterwards, it is difficult to use the knock sensor to find the optimum point?I spent a while last summer messing with this.
I adjusted the advance a couple of degrees across the piece three times and recorded data after each change. I was looking for when I got more knocking.Didn't have a lot of luck. Hi, bought myself a super tuner and leads last week,as a replacement for my Xied leads, which I was fairly happy with really but could not resist the tuner path.Followed Foxsters guide for smart tuning after loading the canned map and did my first smart tune run today. Very interesting stuff and the bike is running well.Hit the interpolate button also which highlighted a few cells extra by the looks of it.The only thing I was very uncertain on is the recording time maximum,the Harley info says 15 mins which I exceeded with a file size after downloading from the VCI of something like 88mb, anyone got much bigger file size by running for longer?Dave. Foxster,Thanks for the guide.I got the middle cells mostly as per your tutorial,thought i would have got more high end ones by the way i rode it for a couple mins!Still will do more probably in the spring now.Think this will be a whole hobby by itself.justifying the cost you see.DaveI keep meaning to update this with some newer functionality of the SEPST.What you can do is leave a laptop plugged into the bike whilst doing your SmartTune run and display the data as its being collected.
This is really, I suppose, for data collection on the dyno. But I've got a little 7' display that I can fasten to a RAM mount on my 'bars and connect it to my laptop in a saddle bag.The huge advantage of this is that the cells are displayed during data collection and they change colour as you hit them.
So, instead of riding randomly and hoping you hit some cells, you can actually tell when you have hit some cells and can then actively try to hit some others, like the high ones you are missing. Foxster, thank you very much for your post. I used it, step by step, for successfully reprogramming my 2010 FXDWG. Your guide is very accurate. Much more than any Youtube video tutorial.Unfortunately I realized too late that I bought the Street Performance Tuner and not the PRO Super Tuner:A:Not a terrible issue because I had in mind to just tune the air/fuel ratio. But, as you know, appetite comes with eating, and now I want to lower the idle that is available only on PRO Super Tuner.Now the question: do you know if there is any way to reset my 'old' Street Performance Tuner so I can sell it to another biker? I googled a while but found nothing.Thanks for your helpEmilio.
Hi Mags -Here's what you need to do to display and record the data live:1.Put the bike on the dyno, warm it up and then shut it down.2.Connect your laptop to the VCI and the VCI to the bike. Turn the ignition on but don't run the bike yet.3.In the SEPST software click the Toolbox icon at the top, then Data on the left.4.Select the Smart Tune Live tab rather than the default Data Items tab.5.Click the Record button.6.Run the engine and work through the gears at various engine speeds and throttle openings. As you hit cells they will go from red to light green to dark green as more accurate data is gathered. There will be some cells you can't get – don't worry about that – get as many of the middle cells as you can where you do your normal riding.7.When you have all the data you need click Stop and save the data before you turn the bike off.8.Process the data the same as in the previous guide.You can either:Make multiple data collection runs and then load all the data files and calculate and apply VE changes in one goOr you can do one file at a time and incrementally apply changes, as long as do each to the current live file from the VCI i.e.
Don't get a data file and apply it to the base map, upload that and repeat as then only the data from the last file will be used. After you select 'smart tune' the idea improvements this calibration in certain approaches to accomplish the task involving determining VE kitchen table adjustments in the future that has a files log obtained from which 'smart tune'-enabled calibration. This calibration, any time 'smart tune' may be chosen just before launching the idea for the ECM isn't what you long for to become operating all the time, it really is only reserved for uses involving gathering which files then.Umm - Google translate?:smile:I think I know what you mean. Yes, you only want smart tune ticked when you are recording data. After that you need to flash a new map (or revert to the original one) and make sure that smart tune is not ticked. Otherwise you will have poor performance from the bike and it will run hot because the AFR will be set to 14.6:1 at all times. Hey Foxster,Much respect for the write up.
I got a SEPST & I've been looking into the SEPST & its 'Smart tune' feature plus info on loading a 'Base Map' for a while before I got the balls to do it. Even though I'm very good on a computer I didn't want to stuff up a $20k bike engine. This EFI stuff freaked me out (due to my local dealer feeding me s@!t about playing with the SEPST settings).To load a Base Map only took 10 minutes, if that. My local HD dealer wanted $100 (AUD) to do it for me. Your write up gave me the balls to do it mate & it saved me a whole bunch of money going to the STEALER. I still cannot believe they wanted to charge me $600 per hour for a simple job. Bloody criminal.It was so simple to do it myself.
The idea being that when the values are changed to something other than 14.6, it can use the VE values discovered using the O2 sensors at 14.6 to calculate the correct injection values to get the desired AFR in open-loop.My question is; when you upload a calibration for smart-tuning, as well as resetting all (most?) of the AFR values to 14.6 (closed-loop setting), does it also reset the CLB values? I would hope so, because otherwise it will calculating the VE values assuming that it is measuring 14.6 but is actually measuring something else entirely (let's assuming lower). So if it is actually running richer in closed-loop during smart-tune, the VE values will be higher than they should be. So when I set a conservative open-loop AFR value of say 14.5, the too-high VE value will mean that my actual realised AFR will be again considerably less than the desired 14.5.So in order for the open-loop operation to reflect the AFR values I have put in the table correctly, and CLB to only affect the realised AFR during closed-loop, should I manually reset my CLB values before starting a smart-tune, or is that all taken care of by the software?EDIT: Also, I haven't seen much in the way of research into what the minimum safe idle RPM is. Any pointers? The more opportunities for lowering engine temp at the lights in central London the better!EDIT2: And another thing: I know that you have to leave the ignition and run switch on at the end of a smart-tune run. But does the engine need to be running?
Can I pull up at home and then (for example) use the stand sensor whilst in gear to kill the engine without turning the run switch off?EDIT3: Ah. In case others are wondering, I suspect the reason why it retards the timing during smart-tunes is to avoid excessive detonation when running so lean. I'm wondering what effect this has on the VE values it comes up with. Whilst waiting for any useful replies, I've done some more research:It looks like the most recent version of the software actually 'hides away' the CLB table and instead will allow you to set lower AFR values and still flag them as 'closed loop'. That being the case, these should work as I expect. I'll get my wallet out.My bike idles at 1k.
I've seen some research that suggests that as long as you are above 900rpm, you are OK from a battery load point of view. (At 900rpm, the battery voltage drops off, so the load is overwhelming the alternator.) But I'd still like to know if an idle RPM of 950rpm (say) is enough to keep the oil moving. It's only a /little/ under 1k, so I'm assuming it's going to be fine.New questions:Does anybody ever try to tune the timing without a dyno? Can it be done (reliably/safely)? I'm assuming that if the optimum detonation is around 20deg ATDC, and that the knock sensor is only detecting detonation from BTDC thru very shortly afterwards, it is difficult to use the knock sensor to find the optimum point?Also, I've seen mentioned on hdforums.com a product called MyTune (MyTune - Harley Davidson EFI Tuning Software for Super Tuner (SEST), Race Tuner (SERT), TTS and TwinScan II+ (It apparently helps with setting up the calibration. But I can't see how, specifically.
Apparently it can interpret the knock retardation and come up with timing improvements. But if I'm not trying to aggressively improve the timing, are there any other benefits?
How about when it comes to smart-tuning? Can it improve the VE table better or faster than the SEPST smart-tune alone?Thanks again for any help. Sorry for resurrecting such an old thread, but it seemed the perfect place to ask:As I understand it, a smart tune sets all the AFR values to the magic 'closed loop' value of 14.6 and then uses the closed-loop feedback observations during the run to calculate the VE at each point in the map. The idea being that when the values are changed to something other than 14.6, it can use the VE values discovered using the O2 sensors at 14.6 to calculate the correct injection values to get the desired AFR in open-loop.My question is; when you upload a calibration for smart-tuning, as well as resetting all (most?) of the AFR values to 14.6 (closed-loop setting), does it also reset the CLB values? I would hope so, because otherwise it will calculating the VE values assuming that it is measuring 14.6 but is actually measuring something else entirely (let's assuming lower). So if it is actually running richer in closed-loop during smart-tune, the VE values will be higher than they should be.
So when I set a conservative open-loop AFR value of say 14.5, the too-high VE value will mean that my actual realised AFR will be again considerably less than the desired 14.5.So in order for the open-loop operation to reflect the AFR values I have put in the table correctly, and CLB to only affect the realised AFR during closed-loop, should I manually reset my CLB values before starting a smart-tune, or is that all taken care of by the software?A question I asked myself a while ago too.Afraid I don't have an answer. What I have read on that there Interweb is conflicting. Some have said you do need to set the CLBs to 450, others have said you do not as Smart Tune mode handles that.My take is that if you had to do this then the manual would tell you to do so. It doesn't.Best I can offer.EDIT: Also, I haven't seen much in the way of research into what the minimum safe idle RPM is. Any pointers?
The more opportunities for lowering engine temp at the lights in central London the better!I have mine at 976 and it feels fine. I am probably going to take it up one notch to 984 though, occasionally makes my teeth chatter at lights at 976.EDIT2: And another thing: I know that you have to leave the ignition and run switch on at the end of a smart-tune run. But does the engine need to be running? Can I pull up at home and then (for example) use the stand sensor whilst in gear to kill the engine without turning the run switch off?Again - dunno. I strap the SEPST orange box to the bike by the battery cover and so its only a matter of leaning down and pressing the button, so its not really a problem for me.EDIT3: Ah.
In case others are wondering, I suspect the reason why it retards the timing during smart-tunes is to avoid excessive detonation when running so lean. I'm wondering what effect this has on the VE values it comes up with.
And to stop the anti-knock kicking in a messing things up. Shouldn't think it would alter the AFR readings it takes too much.
It looks like the most recent version of the software actually 'hides away' the CLB table and instead will allow you to set lower AFR values and still flag them as 'closed loop'. That being the case, these should work as I expect. I'll get my wallet out.Ah, tried that myself and got the 2013 software. Didn't work.The newer ECUs (2013+ models?) have lambda calibrations as opposed to AFR calibrations. So, instead of tuning around an AFR of 14.6, you tune around a lambda of 1.0. This is so that it automatically accounts for different fuels where the AFRs of lambda are different e.g.
Pure petrol versus E10.If you don't have the right ECU then you don't get to use the lambda calibrations and it's these that have the ability to set the AFR directly for closed loop rather than needing the frig of CLB tables.Does anybody ever try to tune the timing without a dyno? Can it be done (reliably/safely)? I'm assuming that if the optimum detonation is around 20deg ATDC, and that the knock sensor is only detecting detonation from BTDC thru very shortly afterwards, it is difficult to use the knock sensor to find the optimum point?I spent a while last summer messing with this.
I adjusted the advance a couple of degrees across the piece three times and recorded data after each change. I was looking for when I got more knocking.Didn't have a lot of luck. Hi, bought myself a super tuner and leads last week,as a replacement for my Xied leads, which I was fairly happy with really but could not resist the tuner path.Followed Foxsters guide for smart tuning after loading the canned map and did my first smart tune run today. Very interesting stuff and the bike is running well.Hit the interpolate button also which highlighted a few cells extra by the looks of it.The only thing I was very uncertain on is the recording time maximum,the Harley info says 15 mins which I exceeded with a file size after downloading from the VCI of something like 88mb, anyone got much bigger file size by running for longer?Dave. Foxster,Thanks for the guide.I got the middle cells mostly as per your tutorial,thought i would have got more high end ones by the way i rode it for a couple mins!Still will do more probably in the spring now.Think this will be a whole hobby by itself.justifying the cost you see.DaveI keep meaning to update this with some newer functionality of the SEPST.What you can do is leave a laptop plugged into the bike whilst doing your SmartTune run and display the data as its being collected.
This is really, I suppose, for data collection on the dyno. But I've got a little 7' display that I can fasten to a RAM mount on my 'bars and connect it to my laptop in a saddle bag.The huge advantage of this is that the cells are displayed during data collection and they change colour as you hit them.
So, instead of riding randomly and hoping you hit some cells, you can actually tell when you have hit some cells and can then actively try to hit some others, like the high ones you are missing. Foxster, thank you very much for your post. I used it, step by step, for successfully reprogramming my 2010 FXDWG. Your guide is very accurate. Much more than any Youtube video tutorial.Unfortunately I realized too late that I bought the Street Performance Tuner and not the PRO Super Tuner:A:Not a terrible issue because I had in mind to just tune the air/fuel ratio. But, as you know, appetite comes with eating, and now I want to lower the idle that is available only on PRO Super Tuner.Now the question: do you know if there is any way to reset my 'old' Street Performance Tuner so I can sell it to another biker? I googled a while but found nothing.Thanks for your helpEmilio.
Hi Mags -Here's what you need to do to display and record the data live:1.Put the bike on the dyno, warm it up and then shut it down.2.Connect your laptop to the VCI and the VCI to the bike. Turn the ignition on but don't run the bike yet.3.In the SEPST software click the Toolbox icon at the top, then Data on the left.4.Select the Smart Tune Live tab rather than the default Data Items tab.5.Click the Record button.6.Run the engine and work through the gears at various engine speeds and throttle openings. As you hit cells they will go from red to light green to dark green as more accurate data is gathered. There will be some cells you can't get – don't worry about that – get as many of the middle cells as you can where you do your normal riding.7.When you have all the data you need click Stop and save the data before you turn the bike off.8.Process the data the same as in the previous guide.You can either:Make multiple data collection runs and then load all the data files and calculate and apply VE changes in one goOr you can do one file at a time and incrementally apply changes, as long as do each to the current live file from the VCI i.e.
Don't get a data file and apply it to the base map, upload that and repeat as then only the data from the last file will be used. After you select 'smart tune' the idea improvements this calibration in certain approaches to accomplish the task involving determining VE kitchen table adjustments in the future that has a files log obtained from which 'smart tune'-enabled calibration. This calibration, any time 'smart tune' may be chosen just before launching the idea for the ECM isn't what you long for to become operating all the time, it really is only reserved for uses involving gathering which files then.Umm - Google translate?:smile:I think I know what you mean. Yes, you only want smart tune ticked when you are recording data. After that you need to flash a new map (or revert to the original one) and make sure that smart tune is not ticked. Otherwise you will have poor performance from the bike and it will run hot because the AFR will be set to 14.6:1 at all times. Hey Foxster,Much respect for the write up.
I got a SEPST & I've been looking into the SEPST & its 'Smart tune' feature plus info on loading a 'Base Map' for a while before I got the balls to do it. Even though I'm very good on a computer I didn't want to stuff up a $20k bike engine. This EFI stuff freaked me out (due to my local dealer feeding me s@!t about playing with the SEPST settings).To load a Base Map only took 10 minutes, if that. My local HD dealer wanted $100 (AUD) to do it for me. Your write up gave me the balls to do it mate & it saved me a whole bunch of money going to the STEALER. I still cannot believe they wanted to charge me $600 per hour for a simple job. Bloody criminal.It was so simple to do it myself.
Although the training info from HD was very helpful at the starting points it stuffed up at the end, in my opinion (I didn't follow the TRAINNING VIDS, I choose to go for what you said from point 38). Your point from SECTION 38 of your write up was simple & WORKED. You really smashed it with this write up mate:). My bike runs sweet after 2 data runs & I'm doing more data runs. It has more power since I followed your tutorial.CheersPS: I'm from Oz & if your ever in my country let me know, I'm in South Australia. I owe you a few beers & a tour of my state.
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Do you have an Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) Harley Davidson and want to tune it without spending hundreds of dollars on a dyno?
Do you have knocking, pinging, or detonation?
Screamin Eagle Pro Super Tuner Maps Download Windows 10
Do you just want your Harley to run great so you can enjoy riding it?
Screamin Eagle Pro Super Tuner Maps Download Free
If you use a Screamin' Eagle Pro Super Tuner (SEPST), Screamin' Eagle Street Performance Tuner, TTS, Power Vision, or Screamin' Eagle Race Tuner (SERT), MyTune is the Harley Davidson tuning software you need. MyTune is an easy to use Windows program that takes data logged from your bike and generates a tune tailored specifically for your bike. It was developed by a home tuner for home tuners. You don't need to have a deep understanding of the Harley Davidson EFI system to use MyTune. It takes care of all the hard work for you.
